Champagne Voirin Jumel Brut - Blanc de Blancs - 1er Cru
Rewarded by the Hachette book in 2006:
"A seductive nose where there is a mix of hawthorn and citrus aromas, caramel and a mineral
touch. Its fresh attack and velvety mouth-feel gives much satisfaction.
It received three stars in the Wine Review Magazine:
"Nice style. Beautiful harmony, length and aromatic complexity. Has good vinosity (body, colour and taste)
Tom Stevenson Comment:
"One of the very best of the distinctly oaky Champagnes from small casks that I have
tasted recently is Voirin-Jumel Cuvée 555. The first aromatics to assault the nose are
indeed all oak, but they are sympathetic to the high-acid character of Champagne.
This results in a lovely richness of fruit on the palate, where the oak can at least be forgotten, even
if it does not actually vanish. Consequently Cuvée 555 has a long path of fine ageing
potential ahead it, whereas so many other oak-aged Champagnes
are stuck in a cul-de-sac where they will never attain any finesse. So what makes this decidedly
oaky Champagne better than most? Well, when the casks were purchased
10 years ago from Burgundy where they were 'old' rather than merely 'used'. So
Cuvée 555 was aged just 4-6 months in 15-20 year-old fûts de chêne, which has
not overwhelmed the Champagne, yet the result is still very oaky. This indicates just how
careful the champenois should be when playing with fired barrels."